Sunday, 19 June 2011

6 hour slow roast shoulder of pork with dauphinoise potatoes - comfort food personified

6 hour slow roast shoulder of pork

Every lazy weekend deserves a lazy roast dinner – this week 6 hour slow roast shoulder of pork with dauphinoise potatoes and green beans. This is possibly the ultimate lazy roast, a beginner’s roast if you will. The reason it makes such a good beginners roast is due to the fact that there are only 3 components to get right and I can vouch that the slow cooking method is very forgiving with the timings. This was particularly helpful when I ended up having an impromptu mid afternoon nap. Ma bad. Again.

I am aware that a roast dinner isn’t very seasonal for Saturday in mid June but when the weather is behaving like a day in mid January (dreich and cold but with none of the excitement of a yet to come Christmas) it seemed appropriate. We ended up huddled around the open fire with the Saturday papers and in that moment I wanted to eat dauphinoise potatoes more than any other food in the whole world. Oh creamy, carby, garlicky wonderfulness…

One good looking piece of meat
One dauphinoise looking a little burnt
6 hour roast pork - the final product
6 hour slow roast shoulder of pork with dauphinoise potatoes and green beans
6 hour slow roast shoulder of pork
Serves 4 plus leftovers
Oven 200 degrees celsius

1.5kg – 2kg shoulder of pork (skin scored)
1dsp sea salt

Pour boiling water over the pork skin, and then pat dry with kitchen towel.
This helps to open up the scores, which makes for wonderful crackling.
Rub salt into the scores.
Pop in the oven for 30 minutes until the skin has all browned and puffed up.
Put a double layer of tinfoil over the top of the roast and then turn the oven down to 160 degrees.
Cook for 5 and half hours.
It does help it if you baste it with the rendered fat every so often, maybe every hour or so.
Depending how fatty your joint is you may want to take the crackling off the joint about 30 minutes before the end of cooking; roasting it separately fatty side up allows it to get really crispy.
When it is ready the pork should be able to be pulled apart, all succulent and lovely.
No need to rest this joint, which is just as well as it hard to resist.

Dauphinoise potatoes
serves 4-6

700g floury potatoes, peeled and cut into slices 2-3mm think (get yer ruler out - jokes)
400-500g of double cream
4 cloves of garlic, grated or finely chopped
2 bay leaves
a few strokes of nutmeg
a couple of pinches of sea salt
good pinch of black pepper

Arrange the potatoes in an ovenproof dish
Mix all the other ingredients in a mixing jug and pour over the potatoes.
Cook in the oven at about 160 degrees celsius for 1hr and 15 minutes.
Mine were in for an hour and a half a got a little burnt.
Check the potatoes after 15 minutes, if the oven is too hot the cream can split, adjust the temperature as necessary.
After an hour check it isn't looking too burnt, it may need a tinfoil hat.

Enjoy.

Thursday, 16 June 2011

Goat's cheese, honey and thyme flower feuille de brick parcel (an ode to N.)


I think it is time I wrote about N.. I’m sure I have alluded to her in previous posts but she is long overdue her own dedicated post (if not several). I met N. almost 7 years ago through a mutual friend when we were at university. We were “set up” so to speak. From my end I would say it was love at first sight, we hit it off straight away. We mainly bonded over our vehement foodie tendencies and a true love of twee Glasgow indie bands (B and S, Camera Obscura and such like). I think for us everything we love in life is covered in a blanket of fluffy sentimentality.

I am deviating here. I want to tell you about the feuille de brick pastry or just “brick” if you are proper French. (I’m a certified Francophile but not French so it is feuille de brick to me.) It originated in North Africa but was adopted by the French when they colonised Tunisia in the 1880s. It is incredibly versatile, in Tunisia it can be used to make a pastilla, a richly aromatic meat pie. In France it is often stuffed with ham and cheese to make a simple family super. Come Autumn I’ll use it as a dessert, maybe stuffed with spiced caramelised plums.

Feuille de brick with goat's cheese, honeycomb and thyme
N. made this for me the first lunch I had in her officially “bijou” studio apartment in Bordeaux that she shared with C.. I remember over looking the rooftops with the warmth of the sun coming through the window.  It was the lightest, crispest pastry I had ever eaten and with the creamy/sharp dichotomy of the goat’s cheese it was pretty magic.

Normally my attitude to pastry is a take-it-or-leave-it-kind-of-one but after this I was sold. When I spotted the packet in the chilled section at Waitrose I was transported back to that November afternoon in Bordeaux with N. and C.. I knew I had to get it. I’ll admit the thyme flowers maybe sounds a little pretentious but their lighter, more delicate flavour is more appropriate than thick sprigs  for this summery dish, plus they are very, very pretty.

Feuille de brick parcel
Goat’s cheese, honey and thyme flower feuille de brick parcel
Serves 1 – yep I’m cooking for 1 tonight.

2 sheets feuille de brick pastry
½ log of goat’s cheese
1dsp honey (I used honeycomb but acacia could be nice)
a wee sprinkle of thyme flowers - maybe 1/2 a teaspoons worth
oil for frying

Carefully take the pastry off the separating sheets.
Put the ingredients in the centre of one of the sheets and fold the edges over.
Put the edges side of the pastry in the centre of the other sheet face down and fold the edges of the second pastry sheet over.
Put the edges side down in a frying pan with some oil over a medium heat.
Fry for a few minutes on each side till golden brown and wonderfully gooey inside.

Enjoy.

Sunday, 12 June 2011

Spicy spatchcocked spring chicken (check that out for alliteration)

Spicy spatchcocked chicken
Food for me is never just food - it's the memories, the people I ate it with, the time of year, the weather, the beautiful ingredients, the story behind them and their producers.... Last night was a night of fun with food. We pretended to be cavemen and woman and ate whole spring chickens straight off the bones. The spicy sauce smeared round our faces like toddlers, hands all sticky.


Late afternoon on Saturday I went wedding dress shopping with E. She looked so beautiful. Dress shopping then turned into a full on confab over pear cider and chocolate truffles around the kitchen table which then turned into a quick trip to Waitrose to pick up a few things. By the time we sat down to eat it was 9.45pm. It was one of those dinners that just got later and later, we ate just at that point between dusk and night. I lit a few candles unwittingly adding to that caveman vibe.


Warning - this is not first date food. Very messy, very fun.


spring chicken or poussin if you are being posh
spatchcocked spring chicken
marinating chicken
Serves 2 - Spicy spatchcocked spring chicken
grill medium heat


2 spring chicken spatchcocked (see Marco Pierre "sellout" White spatchcock a chicken at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjIAWjsJPsc)
Marinade - good glug of olive oil
                 zest and juice of 1 lemon
                 1tsp chilli powder
                 1tsp paprika (smoked or otherwise)
                 4 fat cloves of garlic, smeared to a paste
                 an assaulting of black pepper (maybe 20-30 grinds)
                 salt to taste


Mix the marinade together and rub it into both sides of the chicken.
Leave it for a few hours ideally, I however was not waiting till midnight, it only got 10 minutes.
Grill the chicken for 25-30 minutes, turning once.
Maybe baste the chicken with the juices collecting at the bottom of the grill pan.
Once the chicken has cooked leave it to rest for a few minutes.
Scrape the sticky juicy bits form the bottom of the pan over the chicken and serve.


Enjoy.


Spicy spatchcocked spring chicken with a simple green salad